How-to/tutorial?

[Verfblikje]

First of all, awesome project! I was disappointed that i couldn't get Bluetooth in my Saab, when I bought it. Now you've shown that it is possible, whilst retaining the original head unit. Very cool. :)

However, I can't quite figure out how to do it. This is in no small part due to the fact that I don't know how to read PCB designs etc. So my question then: Is there some sort of How To somewhere? I couldn't find it in your blogs or in any thread. Maybe I missed it. Something that describes the general steps I have to take would be very helpful. The details I can probably figure out for myself.

Thanks in advance,

Nick

[Karlis]

Hi Nick,

The whole thing is pretty straight forward. The project consists of the following parts:

 - PCB. Can be ordered from here (comes in volumes of three).

 - Electrical components to be soldered onto PCB. Can be ordered from here (this also includes the RN52 bluetooth chip that takes care of bluetooth comms and the "brain" - ATmega328P chip).

 - CD changer connector. Can be ordered from a place as described in here.

 - Latest version of the code to be uploaded to the ATmega328P chip. I posted the latest version of it here a few days ago.

Once you receive your PCB and electrical components, you'll have to solder them onto PCB. Willis has done an excellent job making it extra easy to do that as the PCB has really good markings for the electrical components corresponding to the product description on the packages of the components from Mouser. For example: R6 resistor from the package "goes here" on PCB, RN52 chip is to be "soldered here", and so on.

Once that is completed, you'll have to upload the code to the ATmega328P chip and you should be good to go! :)

Good luck!

[BEpsilon]

Awesome project indeed!

Aside from finding a source to get cheap electronic components, I think assembly shouldn't be too difficult.

Nevertheless, I still would like a tutorial.

For instance, say you have one assembled and ready to go.
After the board has been plugged into a Saab...
- what should the user see on the SID?
- what are the currently available functions/features?
- how to use/select/enable those functions/features?
- what is the pairing procedure like?
- how to un-pair a device?
- what about multiple pairs (if possible)?
- if the board is doing weird stuff, how to reset?
- etc.

I think most of us here are wise enough to figure these out on their own. Still, I think there are those who would like a reference guide / user manual to get the device running quickly.

Thanks

[Karlis]

Hi! Thanks for joining the forum!

Here's a post that describes the current functionality/support of the software.

[Seth]

BEpsilon wrote

- what should the user see on the SID?

CD PLAY 01 (or similar)

BEpsilon wrote

- what are the currently available functions/features?
- how to use/select/enable those functions/features?
- what is the pairing procedure like?
- how to un-pair a device?
- what about multiple pairs (if possible)?

http://bluesaab-forum.2349123.n4.nabble.com/Functions-currently-supported-by-the-software-td123.html

BEpsilon wrote

- if the board is doing weird stuff, how to reset?

Unplug/replug device

[Karlis]

Another way of re-setting the module (in case you have hidden it behind the trunk upholstery already) is by pulling the CD Changer fuse. Note that it will also reset the Radio and the OBD-II port.

[Seth]

Karlis wrote

Another way of re-setting the module (in case you have hidden it behind the trunk upholstery already) is by pulling the CD Changer fuse. Note that it will also reset the Radio and the OBD-II port.

Good point. Also, I was messing with some wiring one day and accidentlally (and unknowingly) crossed power & ground, which blew my fuse powering the CD changer port and OBDII port; the radio still worked, but my module did not. Easy fix; but yes, another way to reset things.

[cpodlich]

I've attempted to solder one of the boards and had an issue with the bluetooth RN52.

1. Im guessing that the pads on the bottom are just surface connection meaning that they don't get soldered and make a connection solely by the surfaces touching together. True?

2. Is the drag soldering method the most efficient method to solder this piece (RN52). The leads on it are different than any other piece, such as the headphone jack.

Also, in the mouser part list there wasn't a 6 position header, is this no longer needed for programming?

[Karlis]

cpodlich wrote

I've attempted to solder one of the boards and had an issue with the bluetooth RN52.

1. Im guessing that the pads on the bottom are just surface connection meaning that they don't get soldered and make a connection solely by the surfaces touching together. True?

Yes. Those pads are designed for soldering using reflow method. Since we are not doing that, they can be left as they are.

cpodlich wrote

2. Is the drag soldering method the most efficient method to solder this piece (RN52). The leads on it are different than any other piece, such as the headphone jack.

Yes. I have made quite a few modules now and have found the drag method to be the most efficient for soldering RN52, MCP2515 and the small CAN transceiver (SN..)

cpodlich wrote

Also, in the mouser part list there wasn't a 6 position header, is this no longer needed for programming?

The header part is still needed. I've bought a batch from the local electronics shop. They sold them in strips of 40. In my case they are "breakable", so I can break off the length I need for FTDI, Factory Reset and UART connectors respectively.

[Seth]

The pads under the rn52 are grounds. You can't solder them with an iron. The only way you could solder them is by reflow soldering. They're not required to work. Don't worry about them.

Karlis is good at drag soldering, but that takes practice.  I haven't drag soldered those myself, I choose to do them one by one. Whatever you're most comfortable with.

You will need the 6 pin header to upload code to the 328 if you don't upload code to the 328 before installing it on the board. I'll add it to the bom.

[homerisback]

Hi there,
Nothing to do with soldering, but I finally managed to upload data into the Atmega328 (not-P) and plugged the module in car today.
Then my android phone connected to RN52 flawlessly but the autoradio doesn't see it and doesn't allow me to select the CD changer source...
I tried to check the whole system with my Tech 2 as I know, the genuine CDC needs to be married to car to work. No mariage possible, I always have respone that some device is not responding
Is there any need of Tech 2 programming with the BlueSaab module, or not ?
Do you guys know a way to determine what's wrong ?
Anyway, I'm going to try my 2 other modules and see...

Thanks

[Seth]

No need for a tech2; that would defeat the purpose of this project. The software on the 328 tells the car it's a married cd changer. So if the car can't see the module (it doesn't show or happens to say "locked"), the you have another problem, directly associated with the can communications. This could be white/green wire are swapped, bad can chips (not likely), or the code isn't working on 328 (handling the can communications). Check those things first.

[homerisback]

Thanks for that rocket answer and confirmation about Tech2 !
Actually I saw on my Tech2 that the CDChanger was OK so it seems that the 328 does its job. I didn't analyze this info accurately at first sight... But, at the same time, my audio system appeared alternatively OK then missing ; althought it works perfectly and is married to the car.
I didn't try to disconnect the BlueSaab module to see the behaviour of the audiosystem on Tech2. I'll check all these points and provide feed back asap (it's dark night here now)

Thanks again !

[Seth]

Please make sure you're using the latest code; it changes some timing to 950ms instead of 1000, which had caused my module to drop out.

Also check the can lights on the module. I think one will flash prett consistently, the other one, not much, if at all. The first can light is a pretty good indicator that the car and module are talking (well, more so that the module is seeing canbus info and receiving/sending ok).

If you figure it out, please post back to help others who might also have similar problems :)

[homerisback]

I'll check the code.

About the CAN lights, I had one blinking fast all the time but, if I remember well, the other one wasn't lit up at all or maybe a very few times.
Another question : do the lights go off when the module turns to sleep mode ? I've been afraid for my battery's life and disconnected the BlueSaab for the night...

[Seth]

if you're using pcb v3.3 and the latest code (?), the rn52 is the only thing that will go to sleep; I'm 99.9% sure the can light(s) will still flash, as the can bus is active 24/7. Don't worry too much; the module only pulls like 25mA. With the rn52, it pulls less than 50mA, and even then, sometimes less, depending what mode it's in.

Maybe in the future we'll be able to figure out some sleep code for the 328; it still needs to be able to talk to the canbus, so i think we could put it in a sleep mode where the clock/timer was still active so the 328 could wake up again on seeing a certain canbus command, and/or an rn52 command....

[homerisback]

I have pcb 3.2 and used the 2.1 CDC code which, I think, is the latest.
Thanks for the detailed power-drains by the module, I won't worry for going home by foot, by now ! :)

[Karlis]

On v3.2 PCB the RN52 Bluetooth module is constantly on, but like Seth mentioned, the power drain is low. I had one of those working on my car for months in a row without any problems to the car battery.

When you connect the BlueSaab module to the car, it sends a "status report" message to IHU every second telling that it is part of the car and is married to it. Hence no need for Tech2 programming. Now, when connected, you should see both BT LEDs flashing alternatively, Power LED constantly on and one of CAN LEDs blinking really fast. If that's the case, BlueSaab module "sees" the car and the CAN comms are open. Just so we are on the same page - which MY and model is your SAAB?

[homerisback]

My car is a 9-3 SE Convertible MY2002 with AS3 Audio system and CDC wires pre-installed.

Blue BT2 LED was flashing but not sure about BT1 red LED, however my Nexus 5 connected well to the RN52 chip. As this module is my first SMD attempt ever, I may have soldered the BT1 LED upside-down, because having difficulties to identify anode and cathode... But I don't think this could prevent Audiosystem to switch to CDC source, right ?
The power is constantly on and one CAN LED blinking fast while other CAN LED remaining off or very few times on (not sure about this one).
As written to Seth previously, my Tech2 reported a connected CDC, so the "status report" sendings over CAN seem working. The only odd behaviour is audiosystem which reports OK then missing alternatively (via Tech2), and as far as I remember, it didn't happen before the module connection (but not yet checked if back to normal when the module is disconnected).
Would swapped CAN wires jam the comms and prevent the radio to switch on CDC source ?

Anyway, thank you very much for this great job and help provided !!

[Seth]

It's possible that bt1 is backwards; it won't hurt anything, it just won't light up. When the device is in discoverable mode, the bt1 & bt2 flash alternately. Sounds like it's just backwards. I should prob make the silkscreen better to read; there's a really damn small dot for the cathode...

If you swap the green/white wires, I'm not sure what would happen, but I know for sure the module won't work. I don't think it'll screw anything else up...

On Mar 29, 2016, at 16:11, homerisback [via BlueSaab Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

My car is a 9-3 SE Convertible MY2002 with AS3 Audio system and CDC wires pre-installed.

Blue BT2 LED was flashing but not sure about BT1 red LED, however my Nexus 5 connected well to the RN52 chip. As this module is my first SMD attempt ever, I may have soldered the BT1 LED upside-down, because having difficulties to identify anode and cathode... But I don't think this could prevent Audiosystem to switch to CDC source, right ?
The power is constantly on and one CAN LED blinking fast while other CAN LED remaining off or very few times on (not sure about this one).
As written to Seth previously, my Tech2 reported a connected CDC, so the "status report" sendings over CAN seem working. The only odd behaviour is audiosystem which reports OK then missing alternatively (via Tech2), and as far as I remember, it didn't happen before the module connection (but not yet checked if back to normal when the module is disconnected).
Would swapped CAN wires jam the comms and prevent the radio to switch on CDC source ?

Anyway, thank you very much for this great job and help provided !!

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