Troubleshoot - CAN1/2 LED off

[Felix]

Hi there,

I just built a Bluesaab 5.5, which was great fun. I connected it to my Saab 9-5 Aero 2005 with Denso Nav and I could connect my phone to the device named "Bluesaab".

However, the CDX option is not shown on the Denso screen and the CAN1/2 LEDs are off.

Is there anything I need to do after connecting the Bluesaab to the car? I had a CD changer working with the car, which broke recently.

Thanks,

Felix

[Karlis]

Hi there,

Which firmware version did you flash your module with?

[Felix]

I used version 4.1

[Karlis]

What about power LED? Is that on? Sounds like your module is not getting power.

[Felix]

power is fine and I can connect the phone to the module

[Karlis]

That is good. Bluetooth part of the module is working then. I'd suggest looking at MCP2515 and SN chips to verify if they have good soldering joints at pins. Lack of any CAN1/CAN2 flashes indicates that those chips are either not getting power or are not seeing any CAN frames.

I'd start with checking SN as it is considered to be the "gateway" between the car and ATMEGA chip.

[Felix]

Ok, I'll try that, thanks.

I have noticed that some capacitors in the Mouser BOM on Oshpark do not match the values printed on the PCB, I used the PCB values - is that right?

[Karlis]

Yes, you should go with the values on PCB. Don't know why the values on BOM are messed up. That would be a good question for 'homerisback'.

[Felix]

The solder joints look fine. Another idea: I previously had a CD changer in there, does that need to be divorced first? And: I have cut the audio line for that previous setup to feed my own audio to the head unit when the CD changer was playing, do I need to join the audio lines again at this stage for the CAN1/2 to light up (I will of course join them again when the Bluesaab is recognised)?

[Seth]

Nothing needs divorced; the BlueSaab “will just work” once it’s assembled properly, has the code uploaded, and powered up.

Since you have power and Bluetooth works, there is an issue somewhere with the can interface, or you don’t have the code actually installed & running.

The code is a 2 step process; you need to burn a bootloader, then that will let you upload the code.

And of course, reconnect all the lines you cut previously...

On Mon, Sep 24, 2018 at 03:06 Felix [via BlueSaab Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:

The solder joints look fine. Another idea: I previously had a CD changer in there, does that need to be divorced first? And: I have cut the audio line for that previous setup to feed my own audio to the head unit when the CD changer was playing, do I need to join the audio lines again at this stage for the CAN1/2 to light up (I will of course join them again when the Bluesaab is recognised)?

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[Karlis]

Another good test would be to connect to the module via USB cable and open a terminal simulator on your computer. You should see some text on the screen. If you don't that means the code is not running.

[Felix]

When I start the module, I get:

"BlueSaab"
Software version: v4.1
Hardware version: v5.1
Configuring RN52...
RN52 configuration completed!

Should I get more/different messages?

[Karlis]

Nope, this is it. These messages mean that firmware is running properly. If CAN is still not working, you should start checking what's going on with MCP2515 and SN chips.

[homerisback]

Hi,
About checking SN and MCP2515 are they soldered in the right direction ? It is very easy to put them upside down.
CAN LEDs aren't easy to see if working or not, one is blinking very fast and low light is emitted. The second one lights very rarely...
Which capacitors were different on PCB vs BOM ?

[Felix]

I am referring to BOM and PCB linked from here:

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/13pjiNwt

These are the discrepancies between BOM/PCB that I have found (forgive me if they are not all correctly represented, I did not spend that much time on it and just used the PCB when possible)

C14 BOM:4.7 uF;PCB 10nF
C16 duplicate entry on BOM (47 pF and 0.1 uF); PCB 47 pF
C17 duplicate entry on BOM (47 pF and 10 uF); PCB 47 pF
C12 no BOM entry; PCB 4.7 uF
C11 BOM 10 nF; PCB 0.1 uF
C13,C26,C28 no BOM entry; PCB 0.1 uF

[homerisback]

Hi,
I confirm what Karlis said previously, following PCB labels is the right way. I don't know why Mouser BOM messed up some of them, I'm afraid it happens (not the first time unfortunately...)